Port
Dickson, the playground resort in Negeri Sembilan, is thirty-four
kilometers from the state capital of Seremban and about an
hour and a half from Malaysia's capital city, Kuala Lumpur.
It has miles of fine sandy beaches fringed by Casuarinas,
palms, and the intricate, above-ground root formations of
the Banyan tree. The road to Port Dickson hugs the Malaysian
coastline, making impromptu rest and swim stops almost impossible
to resist. Vendors along the road offer thirst-quenching drinks
of coconut water and sugar-cane juice.
A complete menu of leisure activities is
available in Port Dickson, including water-skiing, canoeing,
snorkeling, windsurfing, and sailing, all of which can easily
be handled through the reception desk at your hotel.
Despite Port Dickson's reputation as an area
firmly focused on beach resort activity, the sights and history
of the surrounding area are well worth experiencing. At Kota
Lukut, a mere seven km from Port Dickson, stands the fort
of Raja Jumaat, a renowned nineteenth-century Bugis warrior.
The fort was built in 1847 to control the lucrative tin trade
in the area. Another rewarding site is the lighthouse at Cape
Rachardo, built by the Portuguese in the 16th century in order
to guide ships to the safety of Malacca's harbor. The lighthouse
is still functioning today, and visitors can ascend its narrow
spiral stair to the beacon, which offers a magnificent view
of the coastline of Sumatra. The Cape is also a popular stopover
point for migratory birds. From September to March, flocks
of sparrows, honey buzzards, and swifts can be seen here,
together with birds of prey, such as hawks and eagles.
Twenty-three kilometers south of the lighthouse,
on the road to Malacca, sits the small and mysterious village
of Pengkalan Kempas. The village houses the enigmatic 15th-century
tomb of Sheikh Ahmad Majnun, whose epitaph explains that he
fell while fighting to save a now unknown woman referred to
simply as "the princess." |
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It is home to a more prominent
mystery as well, however. Beside the tomb stand
three megaliths, elaborately carved, of unknown
origin and use. As if to seal the reputation of
this hamlet of the unknown, there is also in Pengalen
Kempas an "ordeal stone." This ancient
lie-detector, through which a person would put
his arm when answering questions, allegedly reacts
to an untruth by closing upon the liar's fist.
Whether or not this story is true makes for an
interesting dare. |
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